Land Rover SIII 200 tdi conversion

It will never be this clean again!

Series III 2 1/4 engine mounts bolt straight onto the block.

Although the engine can be installed with standard 2 1/4 engine mounts, there are clearance issues between the crankshaft pulley and front axle when the front suspension is compressed. I solved the problem by raising the engine using 5mm spacer plates above and below the rubber engine mounts and by welding 8mm thick plates onto the front axle in order to limit the upward travel of the axle.

Special allen bolts were bough from Steve Parker Land-Rovers. The holes in the flywheel housing needed to be countersunk and the bolt heads needed to be ground down.

Four holes in the flywheel housing needed to be drilled out, tapped and fitted with studs. Two dowels had to be removed.

The turbo has not been modified by clocking. The intercooler is an unmodified Discovery 200Tdi type fitted upside down.

The air filter housing is a Discovery 200Tdi type, modified to bolt to the top of the timing case.

The pipework for the induction system is mostly taken from the Disco 200Tdi and chopped down. Exceptions are the blue 90 silicone pipe, the metal pipe running behind the main radiator, and various short metal adaptors.

I decided to retain the Disco 200Tdi header tank. It was too bif to fit in next to the radiator so I bolted it to a longditudinal strut across the engine bay.

The alternateor is Disco 200Tdi. I unbolted the front of the alternator, rotated it 120 degrees. The alternator is mounted on a Series III alternator mounting bracket which is bolted to the block using 3 41mm long cylindrical spacers. Brackets for supporting the main radiator and intercooler are welded to the chassis.

The homemade lower header tank support strut bolts to the bulkhead.

It's a tight squeeze!

The air filter housing is seam welded to keep it watertight.

When the front suspension is compressed, the propshaft moves upwards and comes into contact with this breather filter oil return pipe

The solution ... Move it!

Problem solved

Initially I connected the accelerator lever on the fuel injection pump to the accelerator pedal via a rigid rod. This caused problems because of the flexibility of the engine mounts. When the vehicle accelerated, the engine would move backwards, relative to the chassis. When the vehicle decelerated the engine would move forward relative to the chassis. The effect was that the vehicle would tend to 'kangaroo' quite badly, which was annoying, but also must have put a big strain on the transmission. A solution is to use the Discovery accelerator cable.

The exhaust is an 'off the shelf' large bore system from Steve Parker.